I had a high end body shop for 20 years. Did a lot of fine polishing when refinishing high end imports. Protecting those finishes while washing and drying was an art form. A major consideration was making sure no gravely, gritty stuff was picked up and carried across the finish. Bird droppings were always a concern because they would stick like glue to the surface of the car and birds consume gravel in order to properly grind/mash their food. So first step is using the hose properly to loosen, and remove anything that even loosely resembles grit. After wetting the entire care you start off soap washing from the roof of the car. Go all the way around the roof down to the belt line at the base of the windows.Why do it this way? Because what you are trying to prevent is using a soapy pad around the rocker moldings, and bottoms of the doors picking up anything that can scratch, and then using that soapy pad to carry those scratchers across the rest of the car. So by starting at the top and working your way down you eliminate that possibility. If the car is immaculate and all that is on it is silt then of course this isn't so much of a concern.But if it has road sludge even after rinsing the real ugly stuff off it is best to start from the top and work down. If you were being extra careful, after you got done the roof, on the secondary pass you could wash only down to the lower part of the doors, but not include the rockers and underneath the rockers until you make a final pass. The final pass would then be only on the rockers, and the bottom part of the bumpers etc.So what does this have to do with the towel? Well proper drying can be a challenge when you are looking at fine finishes. So you want a soft, absorbent towel that will pick up the water, but not leave water residue behind. Some towels do a gross job of collecting water. They tend to leave a coating of water behind which is enough to leave water marks on the finish. We used to use a chamois so as to protect the finish, and get a fine level of water off. After a while a synthetic drying chamois came out that worked even better than the real thing; at least it got the job done quicker. Here is an example of one here: http://www.amazon.com/Absorber-Synthetic-Drying-Chamois-Natural/dp/B0000AY69V/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid;=1397591409&sr;=8-1&keywords;=chamoisNone of the chamois either real or synthetic do the job of drying a car more efficiently than a soft absorbent large sized towel. If you are a shop you would need a built in washer and dryer. Also I don't think in terms of personal home use of joining my car washing towel in with my laundry. So a separate wash cycle for your car towel may be in order. The chamois never get that. They dry hard after only a rinsing, but you purposely wet them anyhow before use which softens them right up. You just wring out the excess water, and wipe away.The pockets on the end of these towels are nice if you want to get around the headlights, or around the wiper area or bumper etc. It would pay you to use the pockets on opposite ends, one each so you are not touching/dragging the towel along the ground. By using one pocket at each end it gives you a lot more control, and having pockets in the first place gives you more control over just grabbing one end of a regular towel. Actually having two of these towels would be ideal; one for getting the rough water off, and a second for finishing the job. I see that one of the versions of this product comes with a squeegee, but I am not a fan of a hard plastic base with a softer nylon squeegee attached to it. There are too many ins and outs and areas that would enable the hard plastic base to bump into the finish on the car. To me two towels is the way to go.Anyhow I hope this helps. A specialty towel like this is a nice way to dry your car. Some towels have a rough surface nap on them and could put fine scratches in the surface. Zwipes 669 is a great, soft, fine nap towel and is highly recommended.