This simply the best all around soap out there for washing cars. I've been using it for years on various cars, and I've yet to find something that works better. It helps bring my Evo to a show worthy clean and shine.A couple cap fulls of this in my pressure washer bottle suds up great, same with my Gilmour Foamaster. It does a great job at cutting through mud and dirt, and even bird droppings if you get to it soon enough. Where I live it rains 2-3x a week so I try to keep my car waxed to reduce washes, but I still end up washing it down once every 1-2 weeks. If I stay on top of it, with this and my pressure washer - I don't have to touch my car with a mit or towel for cleanings. This works that well to clean a car of all dirt, grime, and bugs. However if you let it go a month and it's not waxed, then you'll probably have to mit clean it. The only time I use a different soap is usually the first couple weeks after a wax (assuming it's not caked on dirty somehow) I useMeguiar's Wash and Wax - 48 oz.to preserve the wax job and bring it back to a little more of a shine.To wash - I highly recommend a cheap electric pressure washer with a soap bottle. You can find them around 100-150$, and if you frequently wash your car it's well worth it. My philosophy is the less times I have to touch my car the lower probability of miro-marring and swirl marks. If you have to mitt clean, do as high powered of a rinse you can with a hose to get off the bulk of dirt. I then recommend theMeguiar's Microfiber Wash Mitt, use two cheap 5 gallon buckets (you can get them for a couple bucks from HomeDepot), with aThe Grit Guard Insert (Red) - Fits 12 inch Diameter Bucketat the bottom. One bucket is clean rinse water the others your soap dunking water. The important tips I've found for avoiding marring is to frequently rinse and soap your mitt - don't let it start to get dry of soap/suds. Every single time you're about to rinse the mitt run your other hand over both sides and do a visible inspection, pick off ANYTHING you see. Rinse it, scrape along the grit guard if you need to, re-soap the mitt, then do another run of your hand against it and visible inspection. I can't tell you how many times I've picked something off the mitt, like a small piece a dirt or pebble or leaf/twig part that would've likely marked up the clear coat. Also usually you do not need to apply a lot of pressure, even for caked on grime. Lightly drag it so if there is dirt on the mitt it's less likely to scratch. The only other advice I have is to use at least 2 mitts per car. Reserve at least one for any hotspots on the car that get a lot of dirt - like around your rear wheel wells, rear bumper around exhaust, maybe even your front bumper if you've got it caked with bugs from a long road trip. I save those spots for last with the separate mitt so it keeps all that gunk out of the buckets and off the rest of my car. It's also useful to have another mitt if you drop yours on the ground or it touches any high dirty areas, it's great to set it aside for the washer and use another for now.I usually use a CRSpotless DI filter system to rinse the car off afterwards to a spot free shine. I have however used this and just hosed it off afterwards, and it does a pretty decent job by itself at leaving a fairly spot-free shine (obviously not completely). I'd say it's better then the Mother's wash I tried in this regard. Otherwise it's pretty comparable to the Mother's wash, although I tend to think this cuts through caked on dirt just a bit better. If you don't want a CRSpottless system you can buy the big blue filter housing and a DI filter to build your own for around 100-200$ (I did this after my crspotless system cracked over one winter). If you go the towel dry method I'd recommendMeguiar's Water Magnet Drying Towel- you'll have to ring it out a couple times (maybe buy two), but it's soft and pretty safe to use. Just make sure you don't let it touch the ground or anything else covered in dirt - or you will mar/scratch it during drying.