I won't rehash all the glowing reviews about this sets' superior construction and content. I will say that both its handles survived multiple whacks with a drive hammer and survived. It is billed as a "4x4" repair kit for off road tires, but will also work quite well on passenger car tires.So here's my experience with a few pointers to make things easier.First after you gather all the tools, lube, cement (more on this later), pre-thread the rope plug through the needle, making sure you have 2 even length plug 'legs' bent upwards towards the handle. Locate the puncture, pre-lube the reamer and have at it per the instructions. You really will have to twist and drive the reamer past the tread belts. Although you can repair a tire on the car, you need so much leverage to drive the reamer, (and the plug needle) through the tread and tread belts, it will be difficult. I would estimate 50-75lbs of arm pressure is needed to push through. The tougher the tire (i.e. LT type tires with a lot of tread), the more you will have to push. Here's tip # 1; take advantage of the removable handle on the reamer (hex key supplied with kit), and attach just the tool shaft to your electric drill--instant ream job! Just don't overdo it!Now that you've rounded and trimmed off the puncture all the way through the tread, cord, and belts, use the reamer as a 'plug' to stop any additional air from escaping. Things go better with air pressure in the tire since it supports the tread around the 'target area', so don't let the whoosh of escaping air rattle you.Next, remove the reamer. Air will escape, but if you have about 20-25 PSI of air pressure left in the tire, you will have plenty of time to grab your loaded plug needle and put it in the hole. My first repair was rear tire on a sports car. Very limited working space=very little leverage. I could not drive home the plug. Tip #2. The solution was to coat the plug and needle with rubber cement(purchase separately as it is not supplied)(disclaimer: I think this was mentioned in a previous review-thanks). The cement acted as a lubricant, and while still difficult, I finally was able to drive the plug home. In my case, the kit-supplied lube was ineffective. It probably would have been different if I removed the tire however.Note: This is an "open eyelet" kit. The plug 'needle' has a open slot to facilitate its removal from the tire whilst leaving the plug in place. DO NOT rotate the needle when driving the plug into the puncture. You risk spreading/breaking the eyelet off the needle shank within the tire, or jamming up the eyelet with the twisted plug.Feel free to drive the plug all the way into the tire until the sliding cone stops your motion. NO fear of going too far. Put pressure on the sliding cone, holding it against the tire, while pulling the needle out. The plug is now perfectly seated in the puncture. Just trim the leftover exposed nub with a blade, leaving about 1/8" excess above the tread, so it can be further seated by the rolling tire.One final point, you really need to carry, or have access to, an air compressor or air pump to re-inflate your repaired tire. Otherwise driving on a severely under inflated tire is inviting a blow out.Like everything else, this kit has it's limitations. It probably won't work if you have impaled a railroad spike as you cannot 'double up' the plugs. Also, side wall repair is out-too much flexing. Same with angled punctures.  However, when done properly, the self vulcanizing plugs should last the remaining life of the tire. Happy plugging!