About me/Credibility:  I am a self employed automotive detailer. I have had extensive experience within auto body/paint work including panel replacement, welding patch panels, filling "bondo'ing" sanding and prepping paint/bare metal, priming and painting, blocking, color sanding and finally buffing with both rotary and dual action polishers.The polisher:  People are complaining that this polisher is heavy.  They are not lying, but it is supposed to be. I have found this polisher to do an excellent job from start to finish and it is built very well.  I have even used it with a hook and loop backing plate (which I highly recommend) for sanding down to bare metal (takes it down very fast).  There is no lack of power with this unit.  I have dropped it many times.  Still works like new with the exception that the side handle broke off.  On a scale of 1-5 I rate the overall quality of this buffer 4 stars, especially considering you are only spending about 1/2 the price of the more popular brands.About rotary buffers:  THIS IS NOT A TOY!!! A rotary buffer is primarily used on a low speed setting simply by letting the weight of the buffer and the polish do the work.  You should not be trying to dig a hole in the paint with this or any buffer, which you can and probably will if you are getting too aggressive and do not arm yourself with enough education prior to tackling your project.  A rotary buffer should only be used by someone that either has hands on experience with one, or at least extensive knowledge prior to using one.  This isn't something that should be used without care and absolutely no knowledge prior to working on your project.If it sounds like I am being harsh on the novices, it's because I am.  But, it's only for your own good.  I don't want anyone going out with the thought on their brand new car to take out a swirl or two to only wind up needing a paint job because you cranked this or any buffer up to maximum speed and chose a poor polishing compound selection.  If you're nervous, STOP.  Consider buying yourself the Meguiars Dual Action buffer instead.  It does nearly as much as a rotary can achieve without running nearly as much risk of burning through paint, especially around edges.  Honestly, like I said this is a great buffer and SOMETIMES only a rotary can stand up to the task at hand but I use a Dual Action buffer on average about 19 out of 20 times on standard detail jobs.Tips:-Surface must be clean.  If there is any gritty debris on your car when you polish it it will only make matters much worse.-There are many pads/polishes and combination of products that may need to be used to complete a satisfactory job.-There are different sized pads and style of backing plates available and each have their advantages and drawbacks.-Consider interchanging between rotary and dual action buffers to complete your job.  You may start with a rotary but might obtain a better final result if you finish it off with a dual action buffer.- Stay away from plastic with this buffer.  Plastic does not disperse heat nearly as well as metal and you can very easily burn the paint clear off of the plastic if used incorrectly.Recommended products:-Hook and loop backing plates in various sizes- Red, Yellow and black Meguiars foam polishing pads for various degrees of severity of finish- Meguiars M105 and M205 polish and compound polish (they are paint shop safe for fresh paint applications)- Meguiars Ultimate Compound.  It is a great one step system, it doesn't NEED to be followed up with a finer polish but can be if desired and it is slightly more aggressive than M205 finishing polish.Recommended training resource if you have absolutely no knowledge about using a rotary buffer and their corresponding products:Paintucation by Kevin Tetz, color sanding and buffing edition.  He covers almost everything you need to know and the price of the DVD is more than worth having to pay the price to repaint your mistake.Detailing Tips:Wash and dry your vehicle top down.  For heavily contaminated vehicles such as vehicles with paint contamination I highly urge you purchase a clay bar kit and use it prior to polishing your vehicle to ensure proper prep work is performed.Polish vehicle.  Keep your pad "moist" prep it prior to use by spraying at least a misting of water over the pad to prevent dry polishing and marring.  Stop buffing when your polish turns to a haze.  Keep the cord from rubbing your vehicle by throwing it over your shoulder.SEAL YOUR PAINT.  Polish removes any existing wax on your vehicle.  IT SHOULD BE FOLLOWED UP WITH A FRESH COAT OF WAX.  That is unless of course your vehicle is freshly painted and it's within 90 days.Hope this review helps, remember, this isn't a toy, so it IS going to be heavy, as it should be.