I could not find a body shop that was willing to blend in a repair on a series of 4&#34; x 4&#34;  scrapes-they wanted to paint the whole fender.I used this as a final coat to a repair using the Perfect Match primer and color coat as a base. All three products are totally compatible with each other so you won't get any crinkled surprises.I let the base coat dry one week before hitting it with this clear. Just wanted to make sure that everything stuck.Please make sure you do at least an alcohol wipe between the primer, color, and clear steps (NOT between coats however), especially if you drive around in between painting, as any wax or oils that find their way onto your repair will ruin paint adhesion. Avoid painting outdoors or on humid days at all costs. You will be rewarded with a fish eye and orange peel free finish.It took 6 coats of clear to get an acceptable &#34;gloss&#34; over the color coat. You must take your time and allow each coat to set up (10 min)before spraying the follow up coats. The first few coats will look frosted-don't panic- just keep adding coats until you can see a gloss set up.You must mask off any areas you don't want overspray on. I covered most of my 'front clip' for my repair. This stuff is designed to stick, and any over spray will have to be buffed off with a fairly aggressive compound.  If you mask with tape, be prepared to sand and buff out the tape line-especially if you don't feather in the last few coats.Like every paint repair, you will have to slightly expand the repair area by overlapping your spray target with each step. Shoot for 1/2&#34; expansion and settle for 1&#34; for each step. Resist the temptation to overlap too much or you'll end up painting the whole panel-just like many body shops want to do. I lightly wet sanded the color coat and expanded that slightly to the good factory finish with 2000 grit paper, just to give the clear something to grab onto when I feathered in the last few coats.And speaking of buffing, in order to complete the blending process, you will need to buff with a power buffer and the appropriate compound (or series of compounds if you are fussy). To avoid any lifting, I waited another week after applying the clear to make sure it was reasonably hard.  It was able to withstand some pretty heavy buffing at that point, and I was able to blend and match the PM clear to the factory gloss.