After I got my CV from the auction, I ordered some fancy new headlight bulbs for it. They did NOT come with aiming instructions, which seems silly, if you ask me (but, who asked me, right!).If you've ever searched the web for headlight aiming instructions, good luck! No two are alike! I contacted the manufacturer of the bulbs, and even they had vague instructions. This is the best explanation I found: [...]Step one ... put some gas in the tank. The adjustment will fluctuate a little depending on how much gas you have in the tank (yes, I did it on empty the first time and had to re-adjust the height.), and other load/spring/shock conditions.On a flat surface, you drive the car as close as you can up to a wall and mark the center of the headlight beams. This varies from bulb to bulb, and can range from a well defined rectangle, to a somewhat defined "top," and a vague "bottom." Some bulbs have a kind of a "z" that you align where is zigs and zags.Now, back your vehicle up 25'. This is an "industry rule of thumb," not a mystery, as some manufacturers may have you believe. My lights were shining on the ground at this point, waaaay off!On the back of your lights are little screws with 4 mm hex heads. The top ones towards the outside of the car are for up and down, the lower ones, towards the inside of the car, are for left and right. I tried pliers ... no good, I tried that little crescent wrench ... no good, I went to Sears and bought that pretty miniature set of metric wrenches that goes down to 4 mm for $20 (what was I thinking) ... and I was actually able to do some adjusting by turning and turning the wrench, back and forth, back and forth, dropping it into the frame ... (you know what I'm talkin' 'bout!) ... I did discover (if you're short of cash and have a little wrench already) that by taking the yellow bulb assembly out of the headlight, that the little wrench will spin around without taking it off the post.Since my daughter and I both have these cars, I decided to look for a "real" adjustment tool and found this Lisle product. WOW! Now, I can do BOTH headlights, up and down, AND, right and left, in the time it took me to do one screw before! This thing fits perfectly, it ratchets smoothly, and you can pop it on and off easily! It's like a miracle tool! NOTE TO SELF!!! DO "NOT" BACK THE ADJUSTER SCREW ALL THE WAY TO THE METAL PANEL BEHIND IT WITH THE TOOL ON THE SCREW! THE TOOL WON'T COME OFF AND YOU CAN'T REVERSE THE TOOL OTHER THAN TO REMOVE IT FROM THE SCREW AND TURN IT AROUND! And, no, I didn't actually do this, but I came darn close!K, I digress, sorry about that! Now, you have your car backed up 25' from the wall, hood open, radiator access panel removed (there's a little thumb screw you turn if you're lucky). Lights on "low beam," then cover one of the lights with a dark towel or something, and it will be easier to see the light you're working on.Vertical adjustment (up and down) ... At this point there are several variations of "the rule." I have found on my car that aligning the "top" on the headlight pattern at, or just below, the horizontal centerline for the lights that I marked on the wall is good. This is pretty easy to see for any of the bulbs that I have been using.Horizontal adjustment (side to side) ... This varies a lot! The recommendations in the link in this post has you align the "driver's side" of the beam rectangles (this varies from aligning the centerline of the beam rectangles to two inches to the right of the centerline in some recommendations, and various other recommendations), just up to the vertical centerlines that we marked on the wall. IF you can actually see a definite outline of the beans, this might work. On one car, the beams are defined, on the other I can NOT see a defined left or right edge on the wall, so I had to "play it by ear" and eyeball the adjusters so as to not get them too far in or out, erring on what I thought to be aiming the beams more to the passenger side of the centerlines. Keep in mind that the goal is to illuminate the shoulder, passenger side of the road, the lane you are traveling in, and, I believe, to illuminate somewhat, the oncoming lane without blinding the other driver.Commonsense, and a test drive will tell you if you have it right. If the street signs are glowing like the sun from a mile down the road, you're aimed too high! A quick check of the high beams while in front of the wall may verify your aim. You do NOT adjust high beams, they are supposed to be "self-aiming" when the low beams are aimed, however, they should be somewhat centered over those centerlines we marked earlier.The glory of this tool was then, when I did the test run with the radiator access cowling off already, and I could see the beam was too far towards the driver's side (middle) of the road, I just pulled off the road, opened the hood and popped the adjusting tool on the screw, easily flipped it a few turns (you will know which way after you adjust it a few times) and it came out perfect!Please verify all information, this can be dangerous for everyone if it's not done correctly. Safe driving!